Published in Women’s Own (Oct ’13)
There is indeed an odd sense of identity in the deeply-rooted traditional jamawears, ruffled chundris and a banarsi bodice. Fashion has evolved over the years and so has style. So with the emergence of traditional bridal wear, we all now, have the perfect excuse to dust off those ittichees and get all the vintage joras altered!
1. THE CHOLI:
Initially, Gagra Choli was the traditional attire of women in Punjab before the advent of the shalwar kameez. It boomed among the Rajistani and Gujrati women in 1872 and was worn to cool off in summers. The long-lost choli has now, however, seen the light of the day in series of Couture Weeks along with being modeled by celebrities at various events. The choli, is a name given to mid-riff baring, cropped top with a voluminous ankle length skirt underneath. It’s a outfit that is effortlessly voluptuous and sophisticated, all in one go!
2. MATHA PATTIS:
Matha Pattis are elaborate head pieces adorned by royalty and Goddesses in ancient Hindu scriptures. It is a piece of jewelry made up of quirky colored precious and semi precious stones that are often festooned with artful marvels. Its a trend not only followed by contemporary jewelry artists and brides but this unequivocally chic creation has been bedecked by the friends of brides alike!
3. ANGARKHAS:
Angharka has descended down from threads of history and monarchy. Usually an attire worn by Rajisthani men on festivities, over the years, its sartorial detailing has swayed its way into women’s wardrobe. Angharjka is a long sleeved, full skirted upper garment of varying length, generally open at the chest and tied on the front with an inner flap or parda. Undoubtedly, with its flared culottes, Angharka is a retro and timelessly classic ensemble.
4. KAMDANI:
Kamdani is a name given to gold and silver ornamentation made on a fine fabric. It seems that the designers have ditched the sequin and diamante work and reverted back to the traditional shamrocks, roses, thistles and duchesse patterned bodice with delicate kamdani thread-work. A silhouette enhanced by kamdani is most-definitely a wardrobe perennial that whispers luxury in their very warp and weft!
5. LENGHAS:
To say the least, Lenghas are epitome of elegance. They have rich craftsmanship with thread and wire embroidery, bead-work and motif embellishments. It has an equally enamoring dupatta to match which makes for the most auspicious wedding ceremony. Lengha is what’s surely make you feel like royalty. And to fit the varying trends, both, long and short blouse is a style statement!
6. TRADITIONAL JEWERLY:
Its time to hunt down mother’s jewelry box and make use of the gems that were locked away and sworn never to be worn again: the iconic Nathni and Kundan jewels have made a comeback! Simply put, a Nathni is a big nose rings, often embellished with color stones to match a bride’s dress, where as, Kundan is a traditional gem set with gold foil in between stones and its mount. Along with that, glinting precious stones encrusted in chunky gold choker is also fashion’s favorite!
7. GOTTA WORK:
Gotta is a narrow ribbon or strip woven with gold or silver thread used for appliqué work and has seeped into our tradition from the Mughal Royals. A hand-woven work was through history, sported by Mughal Princess, which with the passing time, became the bridal wardrobe-essential. With clean line and soft construction, gotta work is seen on latest series of Couture Weeks, as gathered, tucked, embroidered or falling loose in rumpled luxury!
8. PEARL WORK:
After Miuccia Prada’s lavish costume designs for Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby – the audiences were enthralled and the fashion industry went on rampage for pearls! The 1920’s era of fur tippets, diaphanous fabrics and colors has made a comeback – with pearls in tact. To name a few, giant names like HSY, Karma and Ali Xeeshan have incorporated the mix of swankiest, black and white pearls into their fine tailoring.


